Why “Co-Developing Materials” Is Becoming the New Strategy Global Brands Are Seeking
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In the past, fashion and lifestyle brands typically selected materials from what was already available on the market—off-the-shelf options with little to no involvement in the development process.
Today, as sustainability becomes an unavoidable competitive requirement, leading global brands are shifting from being simple “material buyers” to practicing material co-development, engaging from the earliest R&D stages to secure materials that genuinely align with both sustainability goals and brand identity.
McKinsey & BoF: Innovation Is the Key Differentiator in an Increasingly Competitive Market
The State of Fashion 2026 report by McKinsey & Company and the Business of Fashion notes that amid cost pressures and volatile global trade, brands must rely on technology and innovation to unlock efficiency and differentiate themselves in the market. Sustainability is increasingly framed as an opportunity for circular business models and environmental initiatives, rather than merely a cost burden.
Textile Exchange: Bio-Based Fiber Market Share Continues to Grow
The Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report by Textile Exchange shows that the global market share of bio-based fibers rose from 7% in 2020 to 13% in 2024, with projections pointing to continued double-digit growth through 2027.
This growth signals that brands worldwide are actively seeking new material alternatives, rather than continuing to rely solely on conventional synthetics or animal-based leather.
Fashion for Good & BCG: Next-Gen Materials Represent a $20–30 Billion Annual Investment Opportunity
The Scaling Next-Gen Materials in Fashion report by Fashion for Good and Boston Consulting Group (BCG) finds that next-generation materials have the potential to capture up to 8% of the global fiber market by 2030, representing an estimated $20 to $30 billion annual investment opportunity.
The report also notes that brands adopting next-gen materials today could unlock up to 4% in cost-of-goods-sold (COGS) savings within five years, compared to brands that delay action.
A Real-World Case: Brands Practicing Material Co-Development Directly with Innovators
Fashion for Good’s The Next Generation of Materials from Waste project is a clear example of global brands moving beyond simply purchasing finished materials, instead engaging directly in early-stage development. Partner brands in the project actively supported testing and scaling of agricultural-waste-based fiber innovations in direct collaboration with material developers.
This kind of collaborative model allows brands to obtain materials that meet their specific technical requirements, while material developers gain real-world usage data to further refine performance.
SOSV: Investor Confidence in Biomaterials Is Returning
The Material Innovation Report 2025 by SOSV reports that biomaterials startups raised $392 million in the first quarter of 2025 alone—a sharp rebound after the sector’s funding fell from a peak of $1.7 billion in 2022 to just $583 million across all of 2024.
This figure reflects renewed confidence among investors and manufacturers in bio-based materials, signaling that the market is increasingly ready for long-term material co-development partnerships.
PiLeatha: A Development Partner That Adapts to Each Brand’s Real Requirements
PiLeatha, developed by Evergen Technologies from pineapple leaf fiber (PALF) combined with natural rubber, uses a proprietary fiber-extraction process developed by the company’s own research team. A key strength that makes PiLeatha suited to R&D partnerships is its ability to adjust thickness, texture, and color to meet each brand’s specific requirements, including the use of natural dyes for brands seeking a deeper sustainability narrative.
The material is plastic-free and can be cut, sewn, and finished without cracking, allowing product design teams to prototype directly from the earliest stages of development—rather than waiting for finished materials from a separate supplier.
Through this material co-development approach, PiLeatha positions itself not merely as a material supplier, but as a partner that helps global brands create products with both distinctive identity and genuinely verifiable sustainability.
Sources
- McKinsey & Company / Business of Fashion, The State of Fashion 2026 — mckinsey.com
- Textile Exchange, Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report — textileexchange.org
- Fashion for Good & Boston Consulting Group, Scaling Next-Gen Materials in Fashion: An Executive Guide — fashionforgood.com
- Fashion for Good, The Next Generation of Materials from Waste — fashionforgood.com
- SOSV, Material Innovation Report 2025 — sosv.com
